How to save your own seeds
Seed saving is more than just a practical gardening skill – it’s a step towards sustainable living and a way to reclaim control over what we grow, eat, and share with future generations.
Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just beginning your journey, saving seeds is great fun and soooooo rewarding too.
Seeds which you have collected will be adapted to your local growing conditions and will improve every year. There are just a few things to remember to achieve the best success.
Which seeds can be saved?
The first thing to mention is that seed can only be saved from Open Pollinated seed. What does that mean? This means that you can not save seed from Hybrid F1 varieties as they will not come true.
When you save seeds from a plant, you're essentially preserving the genetic material that will pass on to the next generation of plants. However, with F1 hybrid seeds, this process doesn’t work the same way. F1 hybrids are created by cross-pollinating two different parent plants that are usually carefully selected for specific traits, such as higher yields, disease resistance, or enhanced flavour. These parent plants are often very different genetically.
The resulting F1 hybrid seed is a "first generation" seed that contains the desired traits from both parent plants. However, when you save seeds from an F1 hybrid plant and grow them the following season, the resulting plants will not be genetically uniform. Instead, they will express a wide variety of traits, some of which may not resemble the parent plant at all. This is because F1 hybrids are a product of the specific cross between two genetically distinct plants, and their offspring will revert to the genetic traits of their grandparents, or even farther back in the family tree.
This genetic variation means that the plants grown from saved F1 hybrid seeds are unpredictable, and you won’t get the same quality, size, or traits that you originally enjoyed. In short, F1 hybrid seeds don’t "come true," which means they will not reproduce consistently from one generation to the next.
For consistent, reliable results year after year, it’s best to save seeds from open-pollinated varieties, which will consistently reproduce true to type. F1 Varieties are usually labelled on the packet.
Collecting seeds
Choose the Right Plants - Choose healthy, strong plants that have demonstrated good growth and disease resistance. These are the ones most likely to produce high-quality seeds.
Timing is Everything - Most seeds are collected once the fruit or flower has fully matured, but before it begins to degrade or rot. For many plants, this means waiting until the seed pods, fruit, or flowers turn brown, dry out, or crack open. If you're not sure when seeds are ripe, observe how the plants naturally release seeds (such as the way dandelions blow their seeds away or how beans dry on the vine).
Harvest in Dry Conditions - Try to collect seeds on a dry day, as moisture can lead to mold or mildew during storage. If seeds are too wet when collected, spread them out in a dry, well-ventilated area to fully dry them before storing.
Label and Store Properly - Label your seeds with the plant variety and the year of collection to keep track of their age. Some seeds have a shorter lifespan than others, so knowing how long they've been stored will help you plan for planting. Read our guide to how long seeds will last.
Store your seeds in a cool, dry, and dark place. Glass jars, paper envelopes, or seed packets are great options. For extra protection, you can store them in airtight containers or sealable plastic bags to keep out moisture and pests.
Separate Seeds from Debris -After harvesting seeds, it’s important to clean them and remove any debris, such as bits of fruit, skin, or leaves. We generally refer to this as the chaff. You can do this by gently rubbing the seeds between your hands and then blowing away the chaff as it should mostly be lighter than the seeds or using a fine mesh sieve to sift out any unwanted material. For small or delicate seeds, be gentle so you don’t damage them.
Test Seed Viability - Before storing large quantities of seeds, it’s a good idea to do a simple germination test. Place a few seeds on a damp paper towel, fold it over and place in a poly bag , keep it in a warm spot. Check for sprouting after about a week or two. If the seeds don’t sprout, they may not be viable, and it’s best to try again next season.
Save Seeds from Local Varieties - If you live in an area where certain plants are particularly well-adapted to the local climate, saving seeds from these varieties can ensure that they continue to thrive in your specific growing conditions. These plants are more likely to be resilient and productive over time.
Drying your seed
Seed that is air-dry is not really properly dormant and so it will not last long. The moisture needs to be sucked from it gently so that it can go to sleep. This can be done using dry rice very effectively.
Equipment:
Jam Jar with lid
Rice ( Twice as much as the seed you need to dry )
A mesh bag
Method
Firstly bake the rice on a tray in the oven for 45 minutes until dry.
While it’s still hot, put it inro the jam jar and screw the lid on .
Wait for the rice to cool inside the jar, this will take a few hours or you ca just leave it overnight.
Do not put the seeds in the jar unless the rice has completely cooled
Pop your seeds into the mesh bag and pop into the jar on top of the rice.
Screw the lid back on tightly so that to air can get in.
Leave for approx 2 weeks for the rice to extract the moisture in the seeds
Once opened the seeds are completely dried and you can seal then in a jar or plastic bag and some will last several years.
Want to know roughly how long then read our blog How long do seeds last?
DIRECTORY OF SEEDS
Sweet Pea
Cross-Pollination: Occasionally
Sweet peas are insect-pollinated, and different varieties can sometimes cross. To maintain a specific variety, grow only one type for seed in a season or separate varieties by at least 50 meters to reduce the chance of cross-pollination or use barriers to such as tall hedges, fences or buildings.
Collecting Seed:Allow the pods to fully mature on the plant. They will turn brown and begin to dry. Harvest the pods before they split open naturally. Spread them out in a dry, well-ventilated area to finish drying. Once completely dry, gently break open the pods and collect the seeds. Store in a cool, dry place.
Calendula
Cross-Pollination: Minimal
Calendula is mostly self-pollinating, so crossing between varieties is uncommon but not impossible.
Collecting Seed:Wait for the flowers to die back and for the seed heads to form. The seeds are crescent-shaped and turn brown when mature. Pick the seed heads when they are dry, and gently break them apart to collect the seeds. Let them dry further before storing.
Nasturtium
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Nasturtiums are insect-pollinated, and different varieties may cross. To save true-to-type seeds, grow only one variety or uase barriers such as tress and tall hedges may help with this but as they need insects for pollination they can not be covered at flowering time.
Collecting Seed:Nasturtium seeds form in clusters and drop to the ground when mature. Collect seeds from the ground or pick them directly from the plant when they are swollen and begin to dry. Allow the seeds to dry completely before storing.
Larkspur
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Larkspur is insect-pollinated, and crossing can occur. Separate varieties if you want to maintain purity. Barriers such as tress and tall hedges may help with this but as they need insects for pollination they can not be covered at flowering time.
Collecting Seed:Wait until the seed pods on the plant turn brown and dry. Harvest the pods carefully to avoid spilling the small seeds. Break open the pods and collect the seeds, then allow them to dry completely before storing.
Ammi
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Ammi is insect-pollinated and may cross with other varieties of Ammi and also with carrots. To maintain variety purity, grow only one type for seed per year.
Collecting Seed:Allow the seed heads to mature and turn brown. Harvest the umbels when dry but before they shatter. Dry them further indoors, then rub them gently to release the seeds. Sieve and store.
Dahlia
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Dahlias are insect-pollinated and cross readily. If saving seeds from a specific variety, isolate the plant or flower heads with mesh bags and hand pollinate . However, keep in mind that dahlias from seed may not resemble the parent plant.
Collecting Seed:Wait for the seed heads to dry on the plant. Once the flower heads are crispy and dry, collect them and gently break them apart to remove the seeds. Dry the seeds completely before storing.
Zinnia
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Zinnias are insect-pollinated and cross between varieties. To save true-to-type seeds, isolate plants by at least 30 meters, grow only one variety or Mesh bag the flowers and hand pollinate them.
Collecting Seed:Allow the flower heads to dry completely on the plant until they become brown and brittle. Remove the flower heads and gently break them apart to separate the seeds. Dry thoroughly before storing.
Amaranth
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Amaranths are wind-pollinated, and different varieties can cross. To maintain variety purity, isolate plants by at least 300 meters.
Collecting Seed:Wait for the flower heads to dry on the plant. Cut the heads when they are brown and crispy, and place them on a sheet or in a bag. Rub the flower heads to release the seeds. Sieve to remove chaff, then store.
Foxglove
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Foxgloves are insect-pollinated and may cross with other foxglove varieties. To save true-to-type seeds, isolate plants or grow one variety at a time.
Collecting Seed:Once the seed pods turn brown and begin to crack open, cut the stalk and place it on a sheet indoors. Allow it to dry further, then shake or gently rub the pods to release the tiny seeds. Sieve and store in a dry place.
Hellebore
Cross-Pollination: Yes
Hellebores cross-pollinate readily. If you want seeds true to a parent, isolate the plant or use hand-pollination. Keep in mind that seedlings may still show genetic variation.
Collecting Seed:Hellebore seeds mature in pods that swell and begin to split when ripe. Collect the pods before they fully open to avoid losing seeds. Break open the pods, collect the seeds, and sow them immediately, as hellebore seeds have a short viability period.
Tomatoes
Cross Pollination: Not Usually
Tomatoes are almost all self pollinating, and will not cross. This is because the anthers on tomato flowers are fused together to make a tight cone which insects cannot pass, and the stigma is very short. It is located deep inside this cone of anthers so insects can’t get to it. The only pollen that can fertilise it comes from the surrounding cone of anthers.
Varieties with longer stigmas do allow cross pollination though - there include potato leaved tomatoes and currant tomatoes. To avoid crossing you should only grow one variety with exposed stigmas. It is also good to be aware of the double flowers which are sometimes formed first by many beefsteak tomatoes – These also often have exposed stigmas, but later single flowers will be normal so its wise not to collect seeds from the first fruits which set.
Collecting Seed:
Allow tomatoes to fully ripen. Slice in half, and squeeze the seeds and juice into a jar. You then need to ferment this mixture for a few days - this will remove the jelly-like coating surrounding each seed. Leave the jar of seeds and juice in a warm place for 3 days, stirring the mixture twice a day. It should develop a coating of mould, and start to smell really nasty!
After 3 days, no more and no less ! add plenty of water to the jar, and stir well. The good seeds should sink to the bottom of the jar. You can then gently pour off the top layer of mould and any seeds which are floating. This should leave behind the good seeds which can be put into a sieve and washed under running water.
Shake off as much of the water as possible, and tip the sieve out onto a plate or matt. Do not use anything like a paper towel or paper plate as they will stick to it. Leave to dry somewhere warm out of direct sunlight. Once completely dry rub them off the plate or matt and store.
Chillies
Cross Pollination: Yes
Chillis are self pollinating, however they will also happily cross with other varieties. Plants need to be isolated to around 50 m apart or you can also isolate the with physical barriers such as netting around each variety.
Collecting Seed:
Wait for the fruits to ripen to their final colour then cut open carefully, and rub the seeds gently off of the 'core' onto a plate. Wearing rubber gloves to deseed chillies is also a good idea! Dry the seeds in a warm but not hot place until they snap rather than bending.
Pumpkins, courgettes, marrows and squashes
Cross Pollination: Yes
All of the pumpin & squash family will cross readily with each other. The only way to save true seed is to hand pollinate one or more fruits.
All have male and female flowers. The female flowers are the ones which grow into fruits and can be identified by the small immature bulbous fruit which should be obvious beneath the flower. Male flowers will just have a straight stem.
For pollination to occur pollen needs to be transferred from a male flower into a female flower from the same variety.
In the evening, when the plants are just beginning to produce flowers, find some male and female flowers which look like they will open the next day. These can be identified as they are much fatter than the others, and will have turned from green to yellow.They need to be stopped from actually opening by popping a rubber band over the end of the flower petals.
In the morning you can they go back to the plants, remove one of the male flowers at the stem with secateurs, remove its rubber band and all of the petals. Take it to one of the female flowers, remove its rubbers band also and then use the male flower like a paint brush. Brushing the pollen over the female stigma in the center of the flower. Gently place the elastic band back over the petals of the female flower so that no insects can contaminate it.
Its also a good idea at this stage to mark the flower which has been hand pollinated somehow. A piece of string tied around the stem works well and will indicate at harvest time which fruits were hand pollinated so you know which ones to keep for seed and which ones can be eaten.
Collecting Seed:
Harvest at the usual time, ensuring that you keep the ones marked for seed production separate.
Then cut the pumpkin in half, and scoop out the seeds, ( You can still use the flesh for cooking)
Wash the seed in a colander, to get rid of the fibres, and shake off as much water as possible. You can pat the seeds dry with a tea towel to help.
Spread the seeds out on a plate or tray to dry and leave in a warm place. Test the seeds are dry enough by trying to bend one in half. If it is dry, it will snap rather than bend.
Carrots
Cross Pollination: Yes
Carrots need to be isolated from other flowering carrot varieties by at least 500m, and they will also cross with wild carrot (Queen Anne's Lace), giving thin white useless roots so if you are also growing flowers nearby it may not be possible to collect the seed easily – Barriers such as tress and tall hedges may help with this but as they need insects for pollination they can not be covered at flowering time.
Carrots are biennial so will only flower in their second year. If you live in an areas with mild winters, then you can leave your carrots in the ground. The foliage will die back in autumn, but will then resprout and start to flower in the springtime. In colder areas, you will need to dig up your carrots in the autumn and re plant in springtime.
Dig up and select the best roots for re planting. Twist off the foliage, and store in a box of dry sand in a frost free place. In spring, replant the roots, and they will resprout and flower.
If you want to maintain a carrot variety effectively, seed needs to be saved from at least 40 good roots to maintain good genetic diversity. If you have too small a genetic pool, you will end up with small, poor quality roots in a very few generations.
Collecting Seed:
Cut off the flower umbels with secateurs as they start to turn brown and dry. (If you have plenty of plants, just save seed from the first and second umbels of flowers to appear on each plant, as these will give the biggest and best seeds)
Dry the seed heads further in a warm dry place, and then rub them between your hands and sieve to separate them from the chaff. Blowing gently over the top of the seed swill also remove more chaff. With an emphasis on gentle so that you don’t blow all the seeds away.
Beetroot, chard & leaf beet
Cross Pollination: Yes
Beetroot, leaf beet/perpetual Spinach & Swiss chard are all biennial, and so flower in their second year. They are also all members of the same family & will cross readily so if you want to maintain their purity then they will need to be isolated from each other. Flowers are wind pollinated and crossing can take place with any other flowering beet plants within a couple of miles. To isolate them you can after year 1 dig up a handful and place them in a tight circle together with a stake in the middle. As the seed stalks form tie them to the stake to keep them together. Then as the seeds develop cover the group of flower heads with a large mesh bag.
Collecting Seed:
As the seeds mature they turn brown and start to dry out. You can either cut entire seedstalks, or harvest mature seeds by rubbing the stems into a bucket. Ensure that the seeds are thoroughly dry before storage.
Brassicas
Cross Pollination: Yes
Sprouting broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers, calabrese, kales and brussels sprouts are all members of the same family of brassicas and they will all readily cross with each other. However they won't cross with turnips, swedes, oriental brassicas or mustard greens.
They can only be pollinated by insects and so isolation is not a viable method of growing for seed saving. However as the seeds last such a long time it can be saved from a different crop each year and will keep for many years.
Crossing can take place within a mile of your location, however in practice, fences, tall hedges and buildings all break up insect flight patterns, so as long as you don't have any immediate neighbours with flowering crops in their garden, you shouldn't have too many problems with crossing.
Grow crops in a block, rather than a row to make it easier for bees to move from one plant to another, rather than away to other flowers elsewhere. You will need at least twelve plants for seed.
Collecting Seed:
Wait for them to grow a tall flower stalk covered in lots of small yellow flowers. These will then form slender seed pods starting out green they will then turn a straw colour as they dry out.
Once they have started to dry out , keep a close eye on them, as they tend to shatter and drop their seed. Once most of the pods begin to look dry it is best to cut the whole stalk and then leave them to mature further on a sheet indoors.
Once they are thoroughly dry, the seeds will come out of the pods very easily. You can rub them in your hands or trample the plants on top of a large sheet to break open the pods. Sieve to remove the chaff and blow away the remaining chaff gently.
Turnips and the oriental brassicas
Cross Pollination: Yes
Mizuna, pak choi, tatsoi and mibuna are all sub varieties of Brassica rapa - the same family as turnips. They will cross with each other and with turnips but they won't cross with broccoli or cauliflowers.
So just like brassicas you should only grow one of these for seed in any year.
They are biennials, producing their flowers and seeds in their second year of growth. However spring sown crops may bolt to seed in hot summer weather which is not good for saving seed as you will be selecting for early bolting in future years.
To avoid this sow after for seed saving after midsummer preferably in a polytunnel, where semi-mature plants can overwinter with some protection. The following spring they should then flower.
Collecting Seed:
The slender seed pods start out green and will then turn a straw colour as they dry out. Once most of the pods begin to look dry it is best to cut the whole stalk and then leave them to mature further on a sheet indoors.
You can rub then in your hands to break open the pods. Sieve to remove the chaff and blow away the remaining chaff gently.
Lettuce
Cross Pollination: Rarely
Lettuce flowers are self pollinating, and will very rarely cross but to avoid these instances its best to separate them by around 3-4m or plant a tall crop in between the rows.
It is very important not to save seed from any plants that bolt early, as you want to select for lettuces that will withstand bolting.
Collecting Seed:
Once the lettuces have flowered, the seeds will start to ripen within about 2 weeks. Seeds can be harvested daily to get the maximum yield by gently shaking the stem into a bag.
Alternatively you can wait until more are ready and then cut the whole plant to collect the seeds. Simply place upside down in a bucket for a few days to allow a few more of the seeds to mature. There will be a lot of excess chaff which will need to be sieved or picked off the top.
Dry the seeds further by spreading out on a plate or tray before storing.
Onions
Cross Pollination: Yes
As they are insect pollinated they will cross with other varieties flowering nearby so only harvest seed from one variety per year.
Collecting Seed:
Allow at least 20-30 plants to overwinter and flower, to give the best genetic diversity. Harvest the seedheads once they become papery and dry, and you can see the black seed showing in half the flower buds in each head.
Cut from the plant and place in a bucket. Knock out the seed and allow dry in a tray. Sieve to remove as much chaff as possible.
Leeks
Cross Pollination: Yes
As they are insect pollinated they will cross with other varieties flowering nearby so only harvest seed from one variety per year.
Collecting Seed:
Allow at least 20-30 plants to overwinter and flower, to give the best genetic diversity. Harvest the seedheads once they become papery and dry, and you can see the black seed showing in half the flower buds in each head.
Cut from the plant and place in a bucket. Knock out the seed and allow dry in a tray. Sieve to remove as much chaff as possible.
Cucumbers
Cross Pollination: Yes
All varieties of Cucumber will cross with each other. Ideally, you need around a quarter of a mile between different varieties. It is possible, however, to hand pollinate cucumbers. You can isolate plants under a fleece to exclude insects, and then hand pollinate the flowers on those plants with a paintbrush. Make sure that you exchange pollen between different plants of the same variety to keep the genetic diversity.
Collecting Seed:
Cucumbers need to be ripened well beyond the edible stage for seed collection.
Pick once the fruits are very mature and have turned fat. Green varieties will turn a dark yellow brownish colour. White varieties will turn a pale yellow. Keep them for 1-2 weeks after picking to continue to ripen indoors. Then cut open, scoop out the seeds into a jam jar, add a little water and stir well. Leave the jar on a sunny windowsill for the seeds to ferment.
After 3 days, fill the jar fully with water, and stir well again. The good seeds should sink to the bottom of the jar, leaving pulp, debris and empty seeds floating on top. Gently pour off the water and debris, refill the jar, and repeat a few times. Once cleaned spread out on a tray or plate to dry. Seds should be hard and not bend once fully dry.
Peas
Cross Pollination: No
Peas are self pollinating, they will rarely cross but it can happen. They can easily be grown side by side without fear of mass cross pollination.
Collecting Seed:
Allow peas mature on the plant until the pods are brown and the seeds start to rattle. If the weather is very wet then the plants can be pulled and hung up to dry . Once dried they can be shelled and dried further in a warm place. Check that they are really dry by using a fingernail to leave a dent.
Runner Beans
Cross Pollination: Yes
Runner bean flowers need to be 'tripped' by wind or insects before the beans set, and are much more likely to cross with other varieties grown nearby than french beans. So it can be difficult to isolate them. Ideally, they should be at least 1/2 a mile away from any other varieties of runner bean. Bear in mind, though, that buildings, trees, and other barriers will limit insect flight patterns. Also if you are gardening in a built up area, you are likely to have few problems with crossing unless of course your immediate neighbours are also growing runner beans.
Collecting Seed:
Allow the pods to mature fully on the plant until they start to yellow and dry out. Place then somewhere dry with a good airflow until the pods are fully dry and brittle. Once dry, shell out the beans and dry further out of the pods. Check that they are really dry by using a fingernail to leave a dent. If they need more drying then you can dry them again in a warm place with a good flow of air
Broad beans
Cross Pollination : Yes
Broad beans will cross with other varieties so if you want to keep your variety pure, you will need to isolate them. Broad beans will self pollinate as well as Cross pollinate so you can simply cover then at flowering time. This is the easiest way to isolate then from other varieties.
Collecting Seed:
Allow to mature and dry on the bush. Wait for the pods to turn dark drown, dry & wrinkle before picking and shelling them. Check that they are really dry by using a fingernail to leave a dent. If they need more drying then you can dry them again in a warm place with a good flow of air.
French Beans
Cross Pollination: Sometimes
French beans are self-pollinating, which happens mostly before the flowers actually open. However, they will still sometimes cross pollinate with other varieties nearby if given the chance. The extent of this crossing will vary so if you can leave around 3m between varieties cross pollination will be much less likely to occur.
Collecting Seed:
Allow the pods to mature fully on the plant until they start to yellow and dry out. Place then somewhere dry with a good airflow until the pods are fully dry and brittle. Once dry, shell out the beans and dry further out of the pods. Check that they are really dry by using a fingernail to leave a dent. If they need more drying then you can dry them again in a warm place with a good flow of air
Read out Blog on Seed Stratification
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